Behind the Bars

Behind the Bars 

I visit bars like others visit temples. Drinking in bars is a sign of civilization, an epitome of grace and charm towards life. This piece is a narration of my life ‘behind the bars’. Not even 18, I visited a bar the first time while on a visit to what we then called Bombay. The place was behind Hindmata cinema in Dadar. The cinema hall is extinct but the bar I visited is not. 

A narrow aisle with benches on both sides, but no tables, dirty curtain hung on the entrance. This country liquor bar was my trial by the fire. Fiery spirit in an unwashed glass was drinkable only because I was excited and silly, both at once. The excitement lasted long though, though the taste and silliness did not. 

I spent college days in ‘dry’ Gujarat with no bars. We drank intermittently, surreptitiously, and fugitively in darkened porches of homes, in stainless steel tumblers, scared of being found out every time the door rattled. 

It was on the evening prowl during my next visit to Bombay that I came of age. A bright neon sign ‘Venice’ was what changed my life. ‘Venice’ was a favorite hangout of World War II soldiers. The bar still exists as a part of the Astoria Hotel behind Eros cinema. A joy to watch McKenna’s Gold at the Eros followed an evening of Gin and tonic and live Jazz. 

Frequent trips to Southern India and Goa expanded my vista of the world of bars and drinks. I enjoyed the thrill of drinking in moving objects like the train, ship, and airplanes. I took my first trip to Goa in a Mogul Line Ship that took 15 hours to reach Panjim. The ship sailed from ‘Bhau cha Dhakka’ jetty in downtown Bombay’s dock area at 2 pm. The bar abroad ship was open at all times and I headed straight there before going to my cabin. I came out only for dinner and went back promptly to continue the pleasure of drinking in a rolling ship. 

The train journey to Madras took two days and two nights. The bearers of the dining service visited at 5 pm in the first-class compartment with ice, soda, and snacks, in grateful anticipation of remnants of your bottle at the end of the evening. 

Bars in Southern India are clean, prices cheap, and food hot. ‘Ayesha’ bar across Hyderabad railway station gave me the luxury of drinking till the first whistle of Hyderabad-Bombay mail at 10.30 pm. The kindly owner usually packed biryani for dinner to relish on the train. 

In Bangalore, I stayed at the Hotel Victoria. After grueling days of traveling interior Andhra Pradesh in auto-rickshaw, I would be in the garden bar at 6.30 pm waiting for white-coated bearers to start the service. In the days without television, the drinking continued till midnight as no one wanted to go to the rooms. 

The lobby bar at Dasprakash Hotel in Cannanore in Kerala gave a glorious view of the ocean that was as intoxicating as drinks. The barman became a friend who thoughtfully packed a basket containing half bottle of whiskey, two sodas, an opener, glasses, and an omelet sandwich for an emergency bus journey of 35 hours from Cannanore to Bombay. 

Back to Bombay, now called Mumbai. My tryst with the bars continued. The Sea Lord at Worli naka is one of my favorites, as also now defunct Toto’s garage. The Harbor Bar at Taj Mahal Hotel is an ancient bar for a quick martini. The old ‘Talk of the Town’ at Churchgate is now ‘Not just Pizza by the Bay'’ and offers great draught beer beside a stunning view of Queen's Necklace. I rue the demise of the bar at Jewel of India restaurant that was famous for its tasty snacks. At my request, the barman let me in at 6 pm, although the bar officially opened at 6.30 pm. 

In Mumbai, the range of bars is now quite wide and exotic, but the character is missing in most of them. I prefer bars with the character of an old-school gentleman like myself. The bar should envelop you with warmth before even you have had a drink. I would like to name three; Woodside Inn at Colaba Causeway, Sea Lounge at Taj Mahal Hotel, also at Colaba, and the Olive Bar and kitchen close to where I live in Bandra. 

I always say, be a gentleman, be civilized, and enjoy your drink at the bar and not at home.